Sahara desert, Morocco

In the Sahara Desert, you can meet the nomadic people who still live in one of the most inhospitable areas of the planet. Today there are about one million nomads who live in the North of Africa.
Brahim, our Berber guide at the Chegaga Erg (Morocco), lived in the desert until the age of fifteen years, now he lives and works in the “city” of Mhamid; he says that he will return to live in the desert … a nomad can’t live without the sensation of freedom that only the infinity of the desert can give.

If you’re looking to experience the majestic dunes of the Moroccan Sahara, there are two main destinations to consider: Erg Chegaga and Erg Chebbi near Merzouga. Both offer breathtaking landscapes, but each provides a different desert experience.

Erg Chegaga, located near Mhamid, is the more remote and untamed option. The journey to Chegaga begins in Marrakech, with a drive of about nine hours through the High Atlas Mountains and the Draa Valley, passing through stunning oases and ancient kasbahs before reaching Mhamid. From Mhamid, you’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to navigate the rugged terrain for an additional two hours to reach the dunes and camps. The effort is rewarded with vast, untouched sandscapes where the dunes stretch endlessly, and the camps are far removed from civilization. This remoteness offers a profound sense of isolation and the purest desert experience, making it the perfect choice for those seeking authenticity and tranquility.

Erg Chebbi, near Merzouga, is more accessible and well-known. From Marrakech, it’s an eight-hour drive to Merzouga, often broken up with an overnight stay in the towns of Ouarzazate or Erfoud. The dunes of Erg Chebbi are spectacular, rising up to 150 meters, and are the most photographed in Morocco. However, the proximity of the village of Merzouga to the dunes means the area is more developed and receives more tourists. While this offers conveniences such as hotels and easier access, it can detract from the feeling of being truly immersed in the desert.

Having experienced both, we found Chegaga more enchanting. Its remoteness and untouched beauty gave us the sensation of being in a true desert wilderness. At Chegaga, sitting atop a dune at sunset or gazing at the unpolluted starry sky felt like stepping into a different world, far from the noise and distractions of modern life.