Tucked away in the high-altitude desert of Catamarca, Argentina, the Campo de Piedra Pómez is one of the most surreal and remote landscapes in South America. Stretching across more than 75,000 hectares in the Puna de Atacama, this protected area is home to a massive field of white and pale pink pumice stone formations, sculpted by volcanic eruptions and shaped by millennia of wind erosion. What visitors find here is a silent stone labyrinth that looks more like a forgotten planet than part of our own world.
The entire area was formed over 100,000 years ago by the violent activity of nearby volcanoes, especially Volcán Blanco (also known as Robledo), whose caldera can still be visited today. The explosive eruptions created vast flows of ignimbrite — a mixture of ash, pumice and gases — which later hardened into stone and were slowly eroded by puna winds. The result is a frozen sea of rock waves, towers and natural sculptures that stretch as far as the eye can see, at altitudes ranging from 3,050 to 4,850 meters above sea level.
Although it was declared a protected natural area in 2012, the Campo de Piedra Pómez still lacks proper conservation infrastructure. Only three park rangers cover the entire region, with some stationed over 80 km from the site. In recent years, increasing tourist traffic and the threat of mining activity in surrounding dunes have placed pressure on this fragile ecosystem. Despite its protected status, the landscape remains vulnerable.
Reaching this hidden treasure is not easy. The closest village is El Peñón, located about 60 kilometers south of Antofagasta de la Sierra, the departmental capital. Both are accessible only by unpaved roads, and a high-clearance 4×4 vehicle is essential. The journey is long and remote, but offers unforgettable views of volcanic plains, salt flats and wide-open skies. From El Peñón, travelers can arrange guided excursions with local drivers who know the terrain. Some tours also include other natural highlights in the region, such as Laguna Grande or the Balcones de Laguna Purulla.
There are no hotels or tourist infrastructure in the pumice field itself, and even in El Peñón lodging is basic. A few guesthouses offer simple rooms and homemade meals, often run by families who also act as guides. For more comfort, travelers can choose to stay in Antofagasta de la Sierra, which has more services, fuel and accommodation options. Wild camping inside the protected area is discouraged, both because of conservation concerns and because of the isolation and unpredictable weather conditions.
The best time to visit is during the dry season, from April to November. During these months, the sky is usually clear and the roads are more accessible. Daytime temperatures can be warm under the sun, but nights are cold year-round, often dropping below freezing. The summer months, from December to March, bring occasional thunderstorms that can wash out roads and make travel dangerous. Regardless of the season, visitors should bring plenty of water, sun protection, warm clothing and offline maps or GPS.
Several scenic areas within the stone field have become informal circuits over time. Among the most impressive are the Gigantes de Piedra Pómez, towering formations that resemble waves of solidified air, and the La Lagunita Escondida, a small hidden lagoon nestled between rock walls. The area’s remoteness and altitude also make it a dream destination for stargazers — with no light pollution and dry, crisp air, the Milky Way is often clearly visible to the naked eye.
Visiting Campo de Piedra Pómez is not about ticking a box or taking a quick photo. It is an experience of solitude, scale and silence. It’s a destination that demands effort and respect, but rewards those who make the journey with an unforgettable encounter with nature’s raw and ancient forces. This is not a place to pass through — it’s a place to feel.